The patented No-Edge™ concept lessens the amount of rubber between the toes and the rock leading to a better sensitivity. The surface area in contact with the rock is hereby increased and supports the exertion of homogeneous pressure.
Slippers are very easy to put on, but they might come off just as quick when you don't place the hook perfectly. After all these shoes are usually more supple and less stiff so they require a higher level of technique to work with. These qualities make them a good choice for training shoes since they are good for gaining feet strength and clean foot placement. With nothing to adjust slippers can only adapt to your foot via the used materials making them harder to fit but also less expensive in production.
Nowadays also a mixture of synthetic and leather uppers is used on a single shoe. The different parts can be easily spotted so that you know where the shoe might still stretch.
Toe Pad medium
Good toe hooking is offered by climbing shoes with medium sized toe pads. These higher performance shoes protect the forefoot well while still being able toe stretch in the sides to a certain extend.
Lined suede will stretch only around half a size, depending on the sizing even a little more. While the lining adds to keeping the shape of the shoe and providing a tiny bit more comfort, it also adds material between your foot and the rock. This leads to slightly less precision and potentially the development of an odor over time.
Some shoes also come with partial lining e.g. in the toe box only to reduce the stretch selectively. The advantage compared to fully lined suede might be costs and still better breathability and comfort in the rest of the shoe.
The claw-like shape of an aggressive downturn allows you to more efficiently cling onto steep and distant footholds. Since the foot is not in its natural position this shape might cause discomfort over time especially for untrained feet. These shoes excel in very steep terrain and provide the highest hooking capabilities making them the best choice for your project with overhangs and roofs.
Highly asymmetrical shoes create a maximum of pressure towards the tip making them real weapons for boulder problems with micro chrystals! However these type of shoes are a little harder to smear with and can make crack climbing to an unpleasant experience.
Toe Angle medium
You can easily compare this to the different grips you are using for climbing holds: the lower the angle the more surface area you can connect and the more friction you can create. Think of gripping a sloper with the full hand, compared to smearing a big part of the sole onto the wall.
This also holds true for smaller features where you crimp up your fingers with a higher angle to create more stability in the grip. Now think of high angled toes within the shoe giving you the ability to stand on really small footholds.
The more tension is provided the more stability you have within the shoe. This increases the ability to put more pressure onto smaller footholds and keeps your foot in place while toe and heel hooking. A shoe with less pre-tension offers more comfort throughout the day and feels more natural for beginner climbers.
How much pre-tension a shoe offers can often be seen at the angle of the heelband towards the sole. Higher tension can also be created with the use of a stronger rubber. This might be indicated e.g. with dots at the back of the shoe.
Last PD 85
Foot Width slightly wide Foot Volume high Foot Shape centered Heel Cup average
Sole Vibram® XS Grip 2™ Rubber supersoft
Supersoft rubbers offers immense friction to the shoe. These excel on volumes and big holds, which can be often found indoors. They completely lack support, but will provide you with good comfort and adaptability to your foot.
Sole Thickness 3mm Midsole none Midsole Type none
If and where the midsole is placed plays a major role in the support and sturdiness of the climbing shoe. It creates a platform where you can place your foot on and distribute the pressure from the point of contact to a bigger surface.
Most commonly the midsole starts in the toe box and might be as small as just an insert to support the toes up to a layer of fabric for the whole length of the shoe. Whereas it increases support it also logically lowers the flexibility at the same time making it harder to bend the shoe for smearing. This additional fabric also adds a thin layer between your foot and the rock reducing the ability to feel smaller features.
Tension System P3-System® w/ Slingshot Heel Cup Sensitivity medium
Weight 380g List Price € 119€ List Price $ 135$
What does the manufacturer say? - La Sportiva
Recommended for: a revolutionary climbing shoe, encouraging the correct use of the foot.
A revolutionary climbing shoe devised for a new climbing concept: more instinctive, fluid and natural. The special features of this shoe provide maximum sensitivity, allowing the foot to function naturally guaranteeing complete freedom of movement. The slip last construction combines suede and microfiber fabrics and the rubber applications on the upper are not only aesthetic options but also help maintain the shoe’s original shape and guarantee maximum grip and abrasion resistance. The low profile sole has the aim of reducing the distance between foot and the rock surface, thus enhancing foot sensitivity. The P3 (Permanent Power Platform), used on the Miura VS model, allows the shoe to keep the downturned shape through time. Thanks to these features, Speedster allows the climber to approach the rock in a totally new and more natural way, whatever the difficulty level. It’s not the grade that is important but the way you tackle the problem. Welcome to a new interpretation of climbing!
This text is provided by La Sportiva . This website does not claim any right over it nor takes responsibility for the content
Which size fits?
We recommend for your profile to pick this shoe around -1.5 sizes smaller than your Street Shoe Size.