The Permanent Power Platform P3™ is a patented construction system maintaining the downturn shape of the climbing shoe for a longer period of time.
D-Tech ™ Technology
The exclusive Dynamic Technology™ wraps the sole around the corner of the shoe and varying in sole thickness from 4mm in the toe to 1.9mm towards the middle responding to the style of modern climbing holds.
The single velcro strap keeps the foot in the shoe fixing the issue of slipping hooks while still providing a versatile freedom in the front. However a good fitting in the toe box is still harder and more dependent on your foot shape.
Nowadays also a mixture of synthetic and leather uppers is used on a single shoe. The different parts can be easily spotted so that you know where the shoe might still stretch.
Toe Pad large
Large toe pads covering the whole forefoot are really useful in bouldering and especially gym bouldering where problems consist of huge volumes. These help to create a good amount of friction at any given angle of the foot while smearing or toe hooking to hold yourself onto the wall. These specialized bouldering shoes need to be fitted well without pain before they can really excel since the rubber itself does not stretch at all.
Lined suede will stretch only around half a size, depending on the sizing even a little more. While the lining adds to keeping the shape of the shoe and providing a tiny bit more comfort, it also adds material between your foot and the rock. This leads to slightly less precision and potentially the development of an odor over time.
Some shoes also come with partial lining e.g. in the toe box only to reduce the stretch selectively. The advantage compared to fully lined suede might be costs and still better breathability and comfort in the rest of the shoe.
The claw-like shape of an aggressive downturn allows you to more efficiently cling onto steep and distant footholds. Since the foot is not in its natural position this shape might cause discomfort over time especially for untrained feet. These shoes excel in very steep terrain and provide the highest hooking capabilities making them the best choice for your project with overhangs and roofs.
Highly asymmetrical shoes create a maximum of pressure towards the tip making them real weapons for boulder problems with micro chrystals! However these type of shoes are a little harder to smear with and can make crack climbing to an unpleasant experience.
Toe Angle high
You can easily compare this to the different grips you are using for climbing holds: the lower the angle the more surface area you can connect and the more friction you can create. Think of gripping a sloper with the full hand, compared to smearing a big part of the sole onto the wall.
This also holds true for smaller features where you crimp up your fingers with a higher angle to create more stability in the grip. Now think of high angled toes within the shoe giving you the ability to stand on really small footholds.
The more tension is provided the more stability you have within the shoe. This increases the ability to put more pressure onto smaller footholds and keeps your foot in place while toe and heel hooking. A shoe with less pre-tension offers more comfort throughout the day and feels more natural for beginner climbers.
How much pre-tension a shoe offers can often be seen at the angle of the heelband towards the sole. Higher tension can also be created with the use of a stronger rubber. This might be indicated e.g. with dots at the back of the shoe.
Last PD 85
Foot Width slightly wide Foot Volume medium Foot Shape centered Heel Cup wide
Sole Vibram® XS Grip 2™ Rubber supersoft
Supersoft rubbers offers immense friction to the shoe. These excel on volumes and big holds, which can be often found indoors. They completely lack support, but will provide you with good comfort and adaptability to your foot.
Sole Thickness 3.5mm Midsole none Midsole Type none
If and where the midsole is placed plays a major role in the support and sturdiness of the climbing shoe. It creates a platform where you can place your foot on and distribute the pressure from the point of contact to a bigger surface.
Most commonly the midsole starts in the toe box and might be as small as just an insert to support the toes up to a layer of fabric for the whole length of the shoe. Whereas it increases support it also logically lowers the flexibility at the same time making it harder to bend the shoe for smearing. This additional fabric also adds a thin layer between your foot and the rock reducing the ability to feel smaller features.
Tension System P3-System® Heel Cup Sensitivity medium
Weight 400g Release Year 2020 List Price € 145€ List Price $ 190$
What does the manufacturer say? - La Sportiva
Theory is the indoor performance shoe designed for perfect adaptation to the new forms of indoor-climbing holds. The shoe’s extreme sensitivity combined to high dynamism, allows for unprecedented spreadability on holds making it particularly suitable for use in the gym. Theory derives from the study carried out by La Sportiva’s R&D department on gorilla prehensile skills and the sensitivity of feline fingertips, combining the evolutionary analysis of the new climbing routes in indoor gyms characterized by very large volumes and extremely dynamic movements. The shoe is designed to release maximum strength and agility while maintaining maximum sensitivity on every type of hold. It has a new construction which uses the exclusive D-Tech™ (Dynamic Technology): the sole wraps the shoe sideways for a total absence of side edges, favoring dynamic support and spreadability on the latest indoor holds. The Vibram® XS-Grip2 sole with differentiated thickness at the toe favors the prehensity of the holds, while the lower volume heel allows for maximum precision in heel hooks. The rubber toe cap covers 90% of the front surface of the uppers to favor toe hooks while maintaining the adaptability for different types of foot shapes. The overall structure of the shoe facilitates volume compression on modern indoor routes and adherence on traverses and more technical passages thanks to the high adaptability. Finally, the upper hook&loop closure band, guarantees perfect tension regulation. Theory: climbing-species evolution!
This text is provided by La Sportiva . This website does not claim any right over it nor takes responsibility for the content
Which size fits?
We recommend for your profile to pick this shoe around -1.5 sizes smaller than your Street Shoe Size.