The heel system PAF by Scarpa spreads the pressure on the heel tendon across a bigger surface and forces the forefoot on a broader area into the front of the shoe creating more pressuring onto the tip of the shoe while being more comfortable to wear on the heel. The number of wholes on the side indicate the strength of the applied tension.
Double velcro closures can adapt also fine to your foot and are more rigid as well as a little more supportive with a steadier fit over the whole shoe compared to velcro lacings.
Synthetic materials tend to not stretch at all keeping the shoe in its shape for longer time and eases the sizing of your shoe. If it fits, it sits! These materials are also preferred by many vegetarians and vegans. A downside is the lower breathability and therefore higher hygienic care.
Toe Pad medium
Good toe hooking is offered by climbing shoes with medium sized toe pads. These higher performance shoes protect the forefoot well while still being able toe stretch in the sides to a certain extend.
Lined suede will stretch only around half a size, depending on the sizing even a little more. While the lining adds to keeping the shape of the shoe and providing a tiny bit more comfort, it also adds material between your foot and the rock. This leads to slightly less precision and potentially the development of an odor over time.
Some shoes also come with partial lining e.g. in the toe box only to reduce the stretch selectively. The advantage compared to fully lined suede might be costs and still better breathability and comfort in the rest of the shoe.
The claw-like shape of an aggressive downturn allows you to more efficiently cling onto steep and distant footholds. Since the foot is not in its natural position this shape might cause discomfort over time especially for untrained feet. These shoes excel in very steep terrain and provide the highest hooking capabilities making them the best choice for your project with overhangs and roofs.
Highly asymmetrical shoes create a maximum of pressure towards the tip making them real weapons for boulder problems with micro chrystals! However these type of shoes are a little harder to smear with and can make crack climbing to an unpleasant experience.
Toe Angle high
You can easily compare this to the different grips you are using for climbing holds: the lower the angle the more surface area you can connect and the more friction you can create. Think of gripping a sloper with the full hand, compared to smearing a big part of the sole onto the wall.
This also holds true for smaller features where you crimp up your fingers with a higher angle to create more stability in the grip. Now think of high angled toes within the shoe giving you the ability to stand on really small footholds.
The more tension is provided the more stability you have within the shoe. This increases the ability to put more pressure onto smaller footholds and keeps your foot in place while toe and heel hooking. A shoe with less pre-tension offers more comfort throughout the day and feels more natural for beginner climbers.
How much pre-tension a shoe offers can often be seen at the angle of the heelband towards the sole. Higher tension can also be created with the use of a stronger rubber. This might be indicated e.g. with dots at the back of the shoe.
Foot Width average Foot Volume medium Foot Shape pointed Heel Cup average
Sole Vibram® XS Edge™ Rubber medium
A good mixture between flexibility and support are medium hard rubbers. These compounds offer good edging capabilities as well as enough adaptability to place a bigger area of the soles on the rock for smearing. The hardness and thickness of the rubber also plays a role for the sensitivity. The thinner and softer the rubber, the easier you can feel small footholds.
Sole Thickness 3.5mm Midsole Flexan Midsole Type forefoot
If and where the midsole is placed plays a major role in the support and sturdiness of the climbing shoe. It creates a platform where you can place your foot on and distribute the pressure from the point of contact to a bigger surface.
Most commonly the midsole starts in the toe box and might be as small as just an insert to support the toes up to a layer of fabric for the whole length of the shoe. Whereas it increases support it also logically lowers the flexibility at the same time making it harder to bend the shoe for smearing. This additional fabric also adds a thin layer between your foot and the rock reducing the ability to feel smaller features.
Midsole Thickness 1mm Tension System DTS-Tension™ Heel Cup Sensitivity medium
Weight 470g Release Year 2021 List Price € 165€ List Price $ 199$
Which size fits?
We recommend for your profile to pick this shoe around -1 sizes smaller than your Street Shoe Size.